K2 8611m EXPRESS ASCENT

EXPRESS ASCENT Summer 2020 2021
From$9,950
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Why book with us?

We are among the best, the safest and most successful agencies worldwide. Some of our team members or our partners achievement: 13 times Everest, 1st Nanga Parbat Winter ascent, first ascents in Nepal and many more. Famous pro-climbers and companies work with us and/or our partners. Not by co-incidence. Among our partners: Denis Urubko, Simone Moro, David Lama and many others. High security standards, reliable material, qualified staff, excellent customer service. Flexible - we adapt the program to each client, as far as possible and meaningful. Best price guarantee - we adjust the price to the numbner of guests- The same price for all guests. Customer service 24/7

Get a Question?

Do you have questions concerning our club, bookings, our programs? Do you need a service, a customized adventure? Do you want to cooperate with us or work for us? Anyhow, drop us a line!

+41 79 561 14 53

contact@hohenbergsteigen.com

 

Mount K2 (8611m) is the second highest mountain in the world. It is located in the Karakorum segment of the Himalayas, on the border between the northern territories administered by Gilgit-Baltistan in Pakistan and the Xinjiang autonomous Tajik circle in China. Those who board the K2 8611m, however, need access through Pakistan because the Chinese side is inaccessible. The K2 is one of the toughest 8000s and the only one of the 14 8000s that has never been climbed in winter.

Strong and very cold winds make the K2 in addition to the technical difficulty to a real and hard expedition.

The K2 has other names: Chogori and Mount Goldwin Austen.

 

Difficulties:
There are a number of routes to the K2 whose character is always different. But they all have common major difficulties:

1) The extreme altitude and the resulting lack of oxygen: In fact, a climber has only one-third as much oxygen available at the summit of the K2 as at sea level

2) At K2, there are often extreme storms lasting several days, leading to many deaths on the summit

3) The steep, exposed routes on the mountain, making it difficult to retreat, especially in stormy weather. Despite many attempts, there was no successful ascent in winter.

 

Routes on the K2

1) Abruzzo spur
The standard route of the ascent, which is used far more than any other route, is the Abruzzo spur that Luigi Amedeo, Duke of Abruzzo, first undertook in 1909. This is the southeast ridge of the summit that rises above the Godwin Austen Glacier. The actual spur begins at an altitude of 5,400 m, where normally Advanced Base Camp is set up. The route follows an alternate series of rock ridges, snow / ice fields and some technical climbing tours with the two famous features “House’s Chimney” and “Black Pyramid”.

Above the Black Pyramid, dangerous exposed and hard-to-drive slopes lead the easily visible “shoulder” and from there to the summit. The last major obstacle is a narrow couloir known as “Bottleneck”. Here the climbers are placed dangerously close to a Seracs wall, which forms an ice ridge to the east of the summit.

2) North ridge
Near the Abruzzi spur lies the north ridge, which climbs the Chinese side of the summit. It is rarely committed, in part because of the very difficult access, with the Shaksgam River must be crossed. This is a very dangerous endeavor.

The north ridge is technically more difficult than the Abruzzo spur and leads over a long, steep, predominantly rocky ridge (Camp IV, “Eagle’s Nest”, 7,900 m) and then crosses a dangerously slip-prone hanging glacier through a traverse to the left, then a snow couloir to reach the summit.

In addition to the original Japanese ascent in 1990, the ascent on the north ridge of Greg Child, Greg Mortimer and Steve Swenson was a remarkable climb carried out in alpine style (though some, fixed ropes already pre-installed by previous crews) were used.

3) Other routes

  • Northeast ridge: long and persistently severe; goes in the upper part in the Abruzzo route, 1978 first.
  • Westgrat, 1981 first.
  • Southwest pier or “Magic Line”: very technical and in the second half even more demanding, first committed in 1986 by the Polish-Slovak trio Piasecki-Wroz-Bozik. Despite many attempts, he did not find his repeat until 2004, when Jordi Corominas did.
  • South Face or “Polish Line”: extremely exposed and most dangerous of all routes, first and only uniquely owned by Jerzy Kukuczka and Tadeusz Piotrowski in 1986. No repetition since then, Reinhold Messner called the route a suicidal route.
  • Northwest Wall, first opened in 1990.
  • Northwest Degree: At the end, cross into the north ridge, first ascent in 1991
  • South Spur or “Cesen Route”: at the end, enter the Abruzzo route; a possibly safer alternative than the Abruzzo route) 1994 first
  • West face: technical difficulty at high altitude, first time in 2007

Annotation:

The tour outlined here includes travel to and with Basecamp. Likewise the accommodation in the Basecamp. Thus, the mountain can be climbed in alpine style, so autonomous.

Of course it is possible to climb the mountain guided by a guide, with all the planning on the mountain itself, so all camps, catering, group material, etc. For more details, booking options and costs see “Services Optional: Full Service”.

Entire Organisation made by HÖHENBERGSTEIGEN and our very experienced partner Hunza Guides Pakistan. Pro climbers such as Simone Moro, Denis Urubko, David Lama trust and travel with our partner! Highest quality while on the mountain and intense experience = your safety!

 

 

 

Program

Day 1

Islamabad: welfare meeting in the Alpine Club of Pakistan & Sightseeing

Day 2

Flight to Skardu or drive to Chilas on the Karakoram Highway 11 – 12h 461km

Day 3

Free day in Skardu or drive from Chilas to Skardu with Indus River 8 – 9h 290km

Day 4

Flight to the K2 base camp by helicopter

Day 5

Reservation day in bad weather

Day 6 - 35

Days for climbing camp

Day 36

Return flight to Skardu

Day 37

Reservation day in bad weather

Day 38

Flight to Islamabad or drive to Chilas 8 – 9h 290km

Day 39

Flight to Islamabad or drive from Chilas to Islamabad 11 – 12h 461km

Day 40

Transfer to Islamabad airport for international flights

Detailed program will be sent after registration or on request.

Best Time

June to August

Duration

40 Days

Basic Package
The basic package includes services from the arrival airport to Basecamp and back.
Full Service Package

The full service package lists expansion options that can be chosen for an ascent of the mountain.

It is also possible to climb on your own from Basecamp. On-site organization, permits, meals and other services can be purchased from us.

You can also choose guiding, extra equipment and many more. Ask us.

 

 

 

Services Basic Package

Basic package leads to the base camp. For an ascent of the mountain you have to choose for example services from the full service or agree with us. Example: summitpermit

 

1) Taxes + Government Fees

  • Royalty fairy
  • CKNP fairy
  • Liaison Officer incl. Equipment
  • Camping fees during trek
  • Bridge crossing fairy
  • Road usage

 

2) Accommodation and meals

  • Islamabad: Hill View Hotel, breakfast
  • Chilas: Midway Shangri-La, Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner
  • Skardu: PTDC Motel, Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner

 

3) Domestic flights

  • Islamabad – Skardu – Islamabad

Gilgit Baltistan flights are heavily exposed to the weather. In case of failure, transport takes place via land.

 

4) Transports land route

  • Pickup Airport – Hotel – Airport
  • Transports sightseeing
  • Islamabad – Skardu – Islamabad on Flight Failure

 

5) Vehicles

  • Depending on number of persons: Toyota Hi Roof Van, Toyota Coaster, Toyota Coaster Saloon
  • 4×4 Jeep: Skardu – Askoli, Hushe – Skardu

 

6) Porters

  • Porters carry luggage from Askoli to Basecamp and back
  • Per person, incl. Group material, up to 50kg free baggage

 

7) Camping equipment

  • 2 – 3 person tents
  • Toilet tent
  • Kitchen tent
  • Dining tent with chairs and tables
  • Shower tent
  • Sleeping mattress

 

8) Kitchen utensils

  • Kitchen tent
  • Kitchen material
  • Lamps
  • Hobs
  • Everything needed cooking and dining material

 

9) Food on the way

  • Camp food from Askoli to Basecamp and back, incl. 30 days in the Basecamp
  • Professional chefs
  • Fresh fruits and vegetables as often as possible
  • Local food depending on availability and request of the guests possible at any time
  • Detailed list on request

 

10) Local Staff

  • Kitchen crew
  • Professional English speaking guide
  • Liason Officer (State Liaison Officer)
  • Assistant Guide depending on group size
  • Porters
  • Note: Helicopter rescue of staff is not covered
 

 

 

Service Optional: Full Service

The same services apply as in the basic package. Basic package covers all required services up to the Basecamp. If you want to climb the mountain, you need additional equipment and material.

In addition to the basic package, the following options can be booked:

High Altitude Porter (HAP) = carrier and guide, 1 HAP per 2-3 guests 4750 USD per HAP
Propane-butane gas 12 USD per gas cartridge
Russian oxygen cylinder 750 USD per cylinder
Regulator and oxygen mask 750 USD per set
Extra carrier to the base camp 160 USD per carrier per way

In addition:

Tents altitude camp, cooking material, gas, mountain guides, food, Gipfelpermit etc. On demand
Additional Costs
  • Own equipment International Air Ticket & Airport Taxes
  • Helicoper costs Skardu – Basecamp – Skardu, to be divided among the guests. More guests = lower price.
  • Visa fee for Pakistan
  • Personal insurance guests
  • Tipping driver, porters, staff
  • Single room supplement
  • Eating Islamabad (Lunch, Dinner)
  • Helicopter costs in case of a rescue mission
  • Transfer from and to the airport for own, unscheduled domestic flight bookings
  • Optional excursions and changes to the agreed tour
  • Personal expenses such as telephone, fax, satellite phone, internet, email, alcohol, soft drinks
  • Room service, tips for room service
  • Others, not listed here
 

 

 

Equipment

Exact material list takes place upon registration

Special Deal

We keep an excellent relation with Kailas www.kailasgear.com and distribute their products. Our guests profit of special reductions and therefore can buy Kailas equipment cheaper when asking us.

We offer their entire portfolio, especially down suits, tents, down products such as sleeping bags, down jackets, gore-tex, 8000m mountaineering boots, backpacks and much more.

Ask us for your deal or have a look at our shop, where we keep a very small collection out of the huge collection.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Visa

We provide the following information for obtaining a visa:

  • Visa Invitation letter
  • Certificate expedition
  • Certification Passport
  • Hotel reservation
  • Certification Partner
  • License Hunza Guides Pakistan
  • Hunza guides reservation
  • Taxcertificate
  • Certificate Pakistan Association of Tour Operators
  • Hunza Guides Owner Passport and NIC Card
Rescue

Askari Aviation is the only company in Pakistan with helicopters that can be used for rescue purposes. The rescue missions are very expensive. Therefore each guest must be able to produce the following certificates:

 

  • Rescue insurance up to at least 40,000 USD
  • Copy of rescue insurance to hand HÖHENBERGSTEIGEN. In the event of an emergency, our partners will contact the guest’s insurance company to cover costs and initiate rescue operations.
  • Further information where required according to Government Pakistan

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