Muztagh Ata is the second highest of the mountains that form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau. It is sometimes considered part of the Kunlun Shan, although it is physically more closely related to the Pamir. He is also considered one of the easiest-to-climb 7,000ers in the world due to its gentle western slope and the comparatively drier weather in Xingjian.
Location: Muztagh Ata is located south of Kongur Tagh, the highest peak of the Kunlun Shan, together forming a somewhat isolated group, separated from the Kunlun main chain, and also separated from the Pamir Mountains in the west. (Both peaks are sometimes considered to be in the “Chinese Pamir” and are more closely connected to the main Pamir group than the main Kunkun group.) Not far north and east of this group lie the plains of the Tarim Basin and the Taklamakan Desert. The Karakorum Highway passes very close to both peaks.
The Swedish explorer and geographer Sven Hedin undertook in 1894 the first documented attempt to climb the Muztagh Ata. Further attempts were made in 1900, 1904 and 1947, the last by the strong team of Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman, who came very close to the summit, but were beaten back due to cold and deep snow. The first ascent of the summit was made in 1956 by a large group of Chinese and Russian climbers across the West Ridge, which is the standard route today. Since the first ascent many ascents have been made by Muztagh Ata. In 1980, a group led by Ned Gillette made a ski lift and descent on the Standard Route, the first ski lift of a mountain over 7,500 m (24,600 ft). An ascent of the much tougher south-east ridge took place in the year 2000.
The peak is located in Rakaposhi and Haramosh ma ssif near the Barpu and Garumbar glaciers. The highest is 7027m / 23,0555ft.
In 1892, a large expedition of WM Conway went into the area to explore the glacier around the summit. The expedition then crossed the Nushik Pass, which is reportedly 5,273 meters high, and descended on the Kero Lungma Glacier and the Arandu.
On modern maps, the height of the Nushik Pass is indicated at 4,990 m. However, the summit was climbed in 1878, from the south ridge, by the Japan Hoshi-to-Arashi (Star and Storm) Club Expedition led by Nakamura.
The Japanese expedition of the Reiho Alpine Club also boarded the area and approached the summit of the Chogolungma Glacier. The highest is 7027m / 23,0555ft.
Entire Organisation made by HÖHENBERGSTEIGEN and our very experienced partner Hunza Guides Pakistan. Pro climbers such as Simone Moro, Denis Urubko, David Lama trust and travel with our partner! Highest quality while on the mountain and intense experience = your safety!
Fly to Islamabad
Arrival in Islamabad and transfer to the hotel, afternoon briefing and sightseeing
Drive to Chilas 461KM, 11 – 12 hours
Drive to Karimabad 220km, 6 – 7 hours
Drive to Sost on the way visit the Attaabad lake and
Stop at various vantage points for photos
After customs clearance we drive over the Khunjerab Pass to China on the Karakorum Highway
In the morning, free time, in the afternoon we drive to Karakul
In the morning we drive 10 km to Subashi and meet our camels and start the way to base camp
Days for climbing
After breakfast in the early morning, remove the base camp and walk back after loading the camels
to Shubash. After arrival there in the early afternoon
Pick up by bus and drive along the China – PK
Highway to Kashgar, on arrival, rest and leisure
In the morning return to the border town of Tashkurgan, the
is predominantly inhabited by Tajiks
Drive back to Karimabad
Morning visit to Baltit Fort and Bazaar, afternoon
Visit Altit Fort and Altit Village
Driver to Chilas, 220km, overnight at the hotel
Dive to Islamabad 11 – 12 o’clock
Transfer to Islamabad airport for international flights
The price includes the following services:
The price for Expedition Makalu includes:
Beforehand, a voluntary preparatory weekend will take place in the Swiss Alps. This serves to get to know the troop, location, technical training etc.
Cost: approx. 650 CHF incl. Accommodation and mountain guide
Participants: from 4 persons
Requirements Expedition Makalu:
Very safe and independent walking with crampons and pimples, height experience over 7000m compelling, 8000s of advantage, IV degree with heavy hiking boots and crampons mandatory, absolutely healthy, very good condition, mental strength, teamwork!
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