Muztagh Ata 7546 m

2020
From$4,700
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Why book with us?

We are among the best, the safest and most successful agencies worldwide. Some of our team members or our partners achievement: 13 times Everest, 1st Nanga Parbat Winter ascent, first ascents in Nepal and many more. Famous pro-climbers and companies work with us and/or our partners. Not by co-incidence. Among our partners: Denis Urubko, Simone Moro, David Lama and many others. High security standards, reliable material, qualified staff, excellent customer service. Flexible - we adapt the program to each client, as far as possible and meaningful. Best price guarantee - we adjust the price to the numbner of guests- The same price for all guests. Customer service 24/7

Get a Question?

Do you have questions concerning our club, bookings, our programs? Do you need a service, a customized adventure? Do you want to cooperate with us or work for us? Anyhow, drop us a line!

+41 79 561 14 53

contact@hohenbergsteigen.com

 

Muztagh Ata is the second highest of the mountains that form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau. It is sometimes considered part of the Kunlun Shan, although it is physically more closely related to the Pamir. He is also considered one of the easiest-to-climb 7,000ers in the world due to its gentle western slope and the comparatively drier weather in Xingjian.

 

Location: Muztagh Ata is located south of Kongur Tagh, the highest peak of the Kunlun Shan, together forming a somewhat isolated group, separated from the Kunlun main chain, and also separated from the Pamir Mountains in the west. (Both peaks are sometimes considered to be in the “Chinese Pamir” and are more closely connected to the main Pamir group than the main Kunkun group.) Not far north and east of this group lie the plains of the Tarim Basin and the Taklamakan Desert. The Karakorum Highway passes very close to both peaks.

 

The Swedish explorer and geographer Sven Hedin undertook in 1894 the first documented attempt to climb the Muztagh Ata. Further attempts were made in 1900, 1904 and 1947, the last by the strong team of Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman, who came very close to the summit, but were beaten back due to cold and deep snow. The first ascent of the summit was made in 1956 by a large group of Chinese and Russian climbers across the West Ridge, which is the standard route today. Since the first ascent many ascents have been made by Muztagh Ata. In 1980, a group led by Ned Gillette made a ski lift and descent on the Standard Route, the first ski lift of a mountain over 7,500 m (24,600 ft). An ascent of the much tougher south-east ridge took place in the year 2000. 

The peak is located in Rakaposhi and Haramosh ma ssif near the Barpu and Garumbar glaciers. The highest is 7027m / 23,0555ft. 

In 1892, a large expedition of WM Conway went into the area to explore the glacier around the summit. The expedition then crossed the Nushik Pass, which is reportedly 5,273 meters high, and descended on the Kero Lungma Glacier and the Arandu. 

On modern maps, the height of the Nushik Pass is indicated at 4,990 m. However, the summit was climbed in 1878, from the south ridge, by the Japan Hoshi-to-Arashi (Star and Storm) Club Expedition led by Nakamura. 

The Japanese expedition of the Reiho Alpine Club also boarded the area and approached the summit of the Chogolungma Glacier. The highest is 7027m / 23,0555ft. 

 

Entire Organisation made by HÖHENBERGSTEIGEN and our very experienced partner Hunza Guides Pakistan. Pro climbers such as Simone Moro, Denis Urubko, David Lama trust and travel with our partner! Highest quality while on the mountain and intense experience = your safety!

 

 

 

Program

Day 1

Fly to Islamabad

Day 2

Arrival in Islamabad and transfer to the hotel, afternoon briefing and sightseeing

Day 3

Drive to Chilas 461KM, 11 – 12 hours

Day 4

Drive to Karimabad 220km, 6 – 7 hours

Day 5

Drive to Sost on the way visit the Attaabad lake and

Stop at various vantage points for photos

Day 6

After customs clearance we drive over the Khunjerab Pass to China on the Karakorum Highway

Day 7

In the morning, free time, in the afternoon we drive to Karakul

Day 8

In the morning we drive 10 km to Subashi and meet our camels and start the way to base camp

Day 9 - 23

Days for climbing

Day 24

After breakfast in the early morning, remove the base camp and walk back after loading the camels

to Shubash. After arrival there in the early afternoon

Pick up by bus and drive along the China – PK

Highway to Kashgar, on arrival, rest and leisure

Day 25

In the morning return to the border town of Tashkurgan, the

is predominantly inhabited by Tajiks

Day 26

Drive back to Karimabad

Day 27

Morning visit to Baltit Fort and Bazaar, afternoon

Visit Altit Fort and Altit Village

Day 28

Driver to Chilas, 220km, overnight at the hotel

Day 29

Dive to Islamabad 11 – 12 o’clock

Day 30

Transfer to Islamabad airport for international flights

Performance & Requirements

The price includes the following services:

The price for Expedition Makalu includes:

  • Swiss mountain guide plus local mountain guide after international training
  • Guided sightseeing in Kathmandu
  • Transfers from / to airports within Nepal
  • 5 nights double room in Hotel Manalu with Bed + Breakfast
  • Makalu maintenance fee
  • Makalu climbing permit
  • Flight Kathmandu-Tumlingtar-Kathmandu
  • Domestic departure fees
  • Local jeep from Num to Tumlingtar
  • Full board in adventure tent camp, day hike with guide and sherpa
  • Full board in tent camp with food, foam mattresses, sleeping tent, dining tent and toilet tent
  • Service of a guide, cook, sherpa, kitchen staff and porters
  • 1 climbing sherpa for 2 climbers
  • 3 oxygen bottles per climber
  • 2 oxygen bottles per climbing sherpa
  • Local fees and insurance of the climbing team
  • Equipment allowances for Climbing Guides, Liasions Officer and local porters
  • Carrier bonus for wearers in higher positions
  • Insurance for Climbing Sherpas, Cooks, Liasions Officer and Local Carriers

Additional costs:

  • Flights (from 1100 CHF / 920 EUR, book independently or bookable through us)
  • Visa (CH: Can be done by us For all: Solved at the airport in Kathmandu, take 2 passport photos!)
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
  • Hotel after 5 nights in Kathmandu
  • Personal climbing equipment above the base camp
  • Personal travel, accident, medical, emergency, and lost luggage insurance
  • Permission fees and customs fees for satellite phone, communication equipment and commercial filming
  • Personal expenses, zBsp. For non- and alcoholic drinks, linen, mail, phones, email, etc ..
  • Customs and import sales tax Royalties for all goods, for personal expedition goods in Nepal as cargo air / road
  • Climbing bonus for every climbing sherpa for the ascent to the South Col, up to $ 500
  • Summit bonus for every climbing sherpa
  • $ 400 for each additional oxygen cylinder
  • $ 4700 for every additional sherpa needed
  • Tipping and bonuses

Preparation Weekend: 

Beforehand, a voluntary preparatory weekend will take place in the Swiss Alps. This serves to get to know the troop, location, technical training etc.

Cost: approx. 650 CHF incl. Accommodation and mountain guide
Participants: from 4 persons

Requirements Expedition Makalu:

Very safe and independent walking with crampons and pimples, height experience over 7000m compelling, 8000s of advantage, IV degree with heavy hiking boots and crampons mandatory, absolutely healthy, very good condition, mental strength, teamwork!

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